The trek: some important take-aways
In the process of writing about the trek the other day I realized that it was actually one of the more intense cultural experiences I had on the trip (you can Imagine 120 Indians all wanting there moment with the foreigner) and consequently I took away quite a few learnings. 1) Where, at least in my experience, most Australians go into the bush to get in touch with nature and to enjoy some peace and tranquility, it seemed like this was the last thing that the majority of the Indian group was interested in. They were whooping & hollering pretty much all the way through. I'd go as far as to say that they were, as a group, completely incapable of silence for more than 30 seconds; even when we were instructed to be quiet because an elephant may have been nearby. In fact, sometimes I feel like Indian people are genuinely terrified of just being with themselves and in their own company. Often when I would tell people that I was traveling by myself I would get the reply, 'oh that must be lonely' or something to that effect, which always really puzzled me because I don't think I felt lonely at any point in the entire trip. My guess is that this is just a function of having a massive, massive population - maybe they're just used to always having other people around. I wonder if it's a phenomenon common to other population-dense countries? 2) I find it really interesting how things become conventional wisdom in different cultures/places and then people become convinced that their way is the right way. For example, Indians all brush their teeth BEFORE breakfast (the people on the trek seemed to only brush once per day - as did I - but maybe at home they would also brush before dinner). In my experience, Australians all brush AFTER meals - which I always thought was because we don't want our first few mouthfuls to taste like toothpaste. Hence, anyone brushing before brekky here would probably be viewed as strange and an outsider. In India, the story I heard, and it sounds like the kind of logic you would have gotten in the middle ages, to be honest, is that when we wake in the mornings we have junk on our tongue (NB: I think this part is legit, but not really sure how cleaning your teeth helps) and if you eat breakfast first you're going to be swallowing this junk. One Indian bloke who saw me cleaning my teeth after eating said 'too late'. Funny isn't it? Such a silly little thing and yet we both get so tied up with our way being right. 3) One of my big insights from the trip, as someone pursuing a career in development, is that there is NOTHING intrinsic to developing countries' populations that makes them more attuned to their environments. This is the romantic story that NGOs and other groups on the left often push; usually along the lines of (but not quite as extreme as): 'all the third world's problems are caused by the west and capitalism and if we just left them alone they would be much better off because they KNOW what to do with their own country'. I didn't know what to make of this before going to India, but I now realize that it's completely bogus. And if it's bogus in India, I'm going to go ahead and assume it's bogus in most developing countries. From what I understand the rural population is usually more progressive than the urban population because they have a much closer connection with the environment, but I'm sure that people in rural areas could also benefit from some outside knowledge (as we could surely benefit from some of theirs). I was continually floored by the treatment of the environment in India and it's beyond a doubt that the country is going to have major, major environmental problems in years to come (perhaps the biggest being the availability of water), but I thought that at least the people on the trek would have it right. After all, they've basically self-selected as people who at least have some interest in nature. Unfortunately, it didn't work out that way. At every camp site there would be plastic littered about; the sum of both my group's and equally unconcerned predecessors. And of course, there was the attitude towards disposing plastic that is ubiquitous throughout India; apparently crossing the lines of class and caste: throw it in the fire! And of course I was the crazy one when I got pissed off about this idea...because we always think OUR ways are right. At least I have some science to back up my opinion though (or at least I think I do...) The litter was the biggest issue, but the apathy towards nature was displayed in a host of other ways. One of the trek leaders, who was even a botanist, would walk off the path to show the group a plant and would then be followed by 100+ pushy and impatient Indians trampling anything in their path. The botanist didn't seem to care either. I really got the sense that nature had very little intrinsic value; it was their to be dominated & exploited. Of course, the trek was almost exclusively the domain of reasonably well-to-do Indians, so perhaps this is an attitude that isn't shared by the lower classes, but you would think that the extra education the wealthier people have received would compensate for this, wouldn't you? I think the problem would be even worse amongst the less educated. My guess is that when you don't have the benefit of an education you struggle to make the connection between 'I'm throwing a little bit of rubbish on the ground' or 'I'm wasting a bit of water' and 'major environmental problems in the future'. In terms of the environment, perhaps what an education provides is the realization: 'wait a minute...what if everyone else is doing what I'm doing...?'. This reminds me: I think I mentioned in my Auroville post that one night a big group of us watched a documentary on water. Well in this doco there was this amazing quote from an American Indian that I told myself I would have to track down. Writing about the above has just jogged my memory and I've found the quote: "How can you buy or sell the sky, the warmth of the land? The idea is strange to us.
If we do not own the freshness of the air and the sparkle of the water, how can you buy them?
Every part of this earth is sacred to my people. Every shining pine needle, every sandy shore, every mist in the dark woods, every clearing and humming insect is holy in the memory and experience of my people. The sap which courses through the trees carries the memories of the red man.
The white man's dead forget the country of their birth when they go to walk among the stars. Our dead never forget this beautiful earth, for it is the mother of the red man. We are part of the earth and it is part of us. The perfumed flowers are our sisters; the deer, the horse, the great eagle, these are our brothers. The rocky crests, the juices in the meadows, the body heat of the pony, and man --- all belong to the same family.
So, when the Great Chief in Washington sends word that he wishes to buy our land, he asks much of us. The Great Chief sends word he will reserve us a place so that we can live comfortably to ourselves. He will be our father and we will be his children.
So, we will consider your offer to buy our land. But it will not be easy. For this land is sacred to us. This shining water that moves in the streams and rivers is not just water but the blood of our ancestors. If we sell you the land, you must remember that it is sacred, and you must teach your children that it is sacred and that each ghostly reflection in the clear water of the lakes tells of events and memories in the life of my people. The water's murmur is the voice of my father's father.
The rivers are our brothers, they quench our thirst. The rivers carry our canoes, and feed our children. If we sell you our land, you must remember, and teach your children, that the rivers are our brothers and yours, and you must henceforth give the rivers the kindness you would give any brother.
We know that the white man does not understand our ways. One portion of land is the same to him as the next, for he is a stranger who comes in the night and takes from the land whatever he needs. The earth is not his brother, but his enemy, and when he has conquered it, he moves on. He leaves his father's grave behind, and he does not care. He kidnaps the earth from his children, and he does not care. His father's grave, and his children's birthright are forgotten. He treats his mother, the earth, and his brother, the sky, as things to be bought, plundered, sold like sheep or bright beads. His appetite will devour the earth and leave behind only a desert.
I do not know. Our ways are different than your ways. The sight of your cities pains the eyes of the red man. There is no quiet place in the white man's cities. No place to hear the unfurling of leaves in spring or the rustle of the insect's wings. The clatter only seems to insult the ears. And what is there to life if a man cannot hear the lonely cry of the whippoorwill or the arguments of the frogs around the pond at night? I am a red man and do not understand."Unfortunately, and I realize now that I've actually come across this before, in what constitutes a pervasive myth defended stridently by environmentalists, these aren't actually the words spoken by American Indian 'Chief Seattle' in 1854, but the words of an American screen-writer (though perhaps inspired by some of the Chief's writings) in 1971. Nonetheless! The point is that they neatly (and with stunning eloquence) summarize my feels about your average Indian - turning the "white man's" disposition on its head a little bit! So you can Imagine how I felt when on the last morning of the trek one of the leaders greeted the group by yelling 'Good Morning Nature Lovers!'. I was sitting their spitting through my teeth the phrase that Aravind Adiga lends to his protagonist in 'The White Tiger': What a f***king joke. But none of this should be taken as a tirade against Indians. It was just a massive wake-up call for me that the cry of NGOs and the like that the people of developing countries are inherently better at managing their environments than us Westerners is categorically wrong. In the end it all comes down to education, and of course that's something that is always going to be more sparse in poor countries than in rich ones.
If we do not own the freshness of the air and the sparkle of the water, how can you buy them?
Every part of this earth is sacred to my people. Every shining pine needle, every sandy shore, every mist in the dark woods, every clearing and humming insect is holy in the memory and experience of my people. The sap which courses through the trees carries the memories of the red man.
The white man's dead forget the country of their birth when they go to walk among the stars. Our dead never forget this beautiful earth, for it is the mother of the red man. We are part of the earth and it is part of us. The perfumed flowers are our sisters; the deer, the horse, the great eagle, these are our brothers. The rocky crests, the juices in the meadows, the body heat of the pony, and man --- all belong to the same family.
So, when the Great Chief in Washington sends word that he wishes to buy our land, he asks much of us. The Great Chief sends word he will reserve us a place so that we can live comfortably to ourselves. He will be our father and we will be his children.
So, we will consider your offer to buy our land. But it will not be easy. For this land is sacred to us. This shining water that moves in the streams and rivers is not just water but the blood of our ancestors. If we sell you the land, you must remember that it is sacred, and you must teach your children that it is sacred and that each ghostly reflection in the clear water of the lakes tells of events and memories in the life of my people. The water's murmur is the voice of my father's father.
The rivers are our brothers, they quench our thirst. The rivers carry our canoes, and feed our children. If we sell you our land, you must remember, and teach your children, that the rivers are our brothers and yours, and you must henceforth give the rivers the kindness you would give any brother.
We know that the white man does not understand our ways. One portion of land is the same to him as the next, for he is a stranger who comes in the night and takes from the land whatever he needs. The earth is not his brother, but his enemy, and when he has conquered it, he moves on. He leaves his father's grave behind, and he does not care. He kidnaps the earth from his children, and he does not care. His father's grave, and his children's birthright are forgotten. He treats his mother, the earth, and his brother, the sky, as things to be bought, plundered, sold like sheep or bright beads. His appetite will devour the earth and leave behind only a desert.
I do not know. Our ways are different than your ways. The sight of your cities pains the eyes of the red man. There is no quiet place in the white man's cities. No place to hear the unfurling of leaves in spring or the rustle of the insect's wings. The clatter only seems to insult the ears. And what is there to life if a man cannot hear the lonely cry of the whippoorwill or the arguments of the frogs around the pond at night? I am a red man and do not understand."Unfortunately, and I realize now that I've actually come across this before, in what constitutes a pervasive myth defended stridently by environmentalists, these aren't actually the words spoken by American Indian 'Chief Seattle' in 1854, but the words of an American screen-writer (though perhaps inspired by some of the Chief's writings) in 1971. Nonetheless! The point is that they neatly (and with stunning eloquence) summarize my feels about your average Indian - turning the "white man's" disposition on its head a little bit! So you can Imagine how I felt when on the last morning of the trek one of the leaders greeted the group by yelling 'Good Morning Nature Lovers!'. I was sitting their spitting through my teeth the phrase that Aravind Adiga lends to his protagonist in 'The White Tiger': What a f***king joke. But none of this should be taken as a tirade against Indians. It was just a massive wake-up call for me that the cry of NGOs and the like that the people of developing countries are inherently better at managing their environments than us Westerners is categorically wrong. In the end it all comes down to education, and of course that's something that is always going to be more sparse in poor countries than in rich ones.

